We’ve just returned from a 5-day stay in Chiang Mai (in the north of Thailand). It’s been 8 years since we were last there, and it seems that very little has changed. The Riverside restaurant is still brilliant, the steps of Doi Suthep are still crammed with a ridiculous number of street sellers, and Tuk Tuks still follow you down the street, hopeful for a fare.
There is, however, a new attraction in the region — the Chiang Mai Night Safari. First impressions are quite simply amazing. The architecture of the main building is consistent with traditional northern Thai styles (and an impressive size), the fountain-light show on the lake is good, and there’s a level of professionalism that you don’t typically see at other Thai tourist attractions.
Visitors travel around the park in an (approx) 40 seater glorified golf cart (basically an open-air bus), and pass through various enclosures to see the animals. The individual habitats seem reasonably sized and the animals look healthy (at least what you can see of them in the lights of the bus)…
…that is, until you reach the very last enclosure, containing the elephants. Where the other animals are free to roam their enclosures, the elephants are chained to the spot. Where the other animals at least seem relatively comfortable, most of the elephants constantly struggle to free themselves… I say most of the elephants, because a couple just stood there rocking backwards and forwards — I’m no animal behaviourist, but it sure looked like psychological problems to me.
The experience is like an ice-cold bucket of water in the face after a hot shower.
Contrast with the Maesa Elephant Camp we went to a couple of days earlier, where the elephant we rode (yes we did the typical touristy stuff) felt free to stop and munch bamboo leaves whenever she wanted (completely ignoring her exasperated handler) and all the elephants looked healthy and interested in what they were doing — without a huge amount of intervention from the handlers (mahout).
The treatment of Thailand’s national animal, is quite simply shameful.
I also wish I’d had internet access to do a bit of research before we went there, because a quick search uncovered the following:
http://www.elephantnaturepark.org/news/0511a.htm
http://www.thailandqa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10906
What could’ve been an attraction I’d recommend to anyone, instead becomes something I recommend you stay away from. Save your 500 baht and give it to support the animals at Maesa or one of the other elephant camps, where the animals are treated with a bit of respect (in fact the mahout live with the animals).